Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Flat tire at the Uganda/Rwanda border

Last weekend I went to Kisoro, Uganda for a bit of a holiday. It was election weekend in Rwanda, AND I visited with some friends in Uganda. It was great fun - we drummed with Sheba, hiked to see Golden Monkeys, ate good food, drank good beer and in general had a blast. I stayed at the historic Travelers Rest. Here are a couple of photos of the hotel.













When I got to the border to go back to Rwanda, the crossing was relatively easy - no long lines, no long wait to get the passport stamped - all seemed to be going just fine. But then I got to the truck. the right rear tire was completely flat. I stood looking at it for a moment, considering my options. In a jiffy there were 5 men wanting to help. I chose the one with a Canada sweatshirt, and told him I would only pay one person. He explained that they would all share. OK. That works for me.

By the time I have the doors unlocked and am looking for the jack, they have the spare off the roof. This seems to be really going well! But then I can't find the jack. We all climb into the back of the Land Cruiser and look. No jack. Not to worry. Canada says he can find a jack, so the rest of us sit and wait. And I call Schadrack, my right hand man and administrator, just to let him know what is going on. He told me that for sure there is a jack in the truck, so I scramble back in and look over and under. One of my new "friends" even opens the hood. No jack.

In the meantime Canada comes back with a jack. Yay! He gets it pumping while Sam uses the wrench from his car to try to loosten the nuts on the tire. The wrench does not fit. "We need a spanner" says Sam. And there is much commotion and Kinyarwanda talk about spanners. A guy in a Obama vest says he can find a spanner. We now have a small crowd watching, and I give a little girl a granola bar. She smiles shyly and runs off to eat the tasty treat. Sam runs back to Uganda for a bigger spanner. Fifteen minutes later Sam and Obama vest are back with 3 spanners, none of which fit our truck. Time for reinforcements.

I call Schadrack again, and ask him to send Faustin, our guard, on a moto with the jack and wrench from our other truck. It is a 30 minute drive, so I sit on the spare and wait. Canada, Sam and the others dispurse, but I see them watching, waiting for Faustin in the hopes that I'll still pay them. While I'm waiting, I watch a little wagtail on the side mirror watching himself strut back and forth. Pertty cute until he launches himself into the mirror. I chase him away. I also watch the everpresent yellow-billed kites, pied crows, white naped ravens as they soar and bicker. There are about a dozen boys kick boxing up the street, and the little, crowded buses arrive, unload, reload and take off. Then it starts to rain. But just a little.

Faustin finally arrives and I supress the urge to give him a big hug. Sam, Canada, Obama vest and the others flock back and begin to help Faustin. As they are messing with the jack he brought, Faustin reaches into the back of the truck, removes a side panel behind one of the seats, and pulls out a jack and wrench. I am very embarrassed. Some independent woman.... He yells at the guys in Kinyarwanda, but it sorta sounds like "you idiots, it is right here!"...

The spare is on, the flat tire in the truck, and hands are out for payment. Faustin says "um va!!!" "Listen!!" and there is heated discussion. Finally Faustin hands over the equivalent of 2 dollars. Everybody is happy and we are on our way. Faustin speaks French and Kinyarwanda. I speak english, 10 words of Kinyarwanda and baby French. I apologized in every language I could, and he laughed. What a day.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

One whole year

Tomorrow is my one year anniversary, living in Africa. Wow time flies. Today I am sitting at my desk in my little house working at the computer - I am hopelessly behind on paperwork. I'm watching mousebirds, sunbirds and bulbuls as they flit in the bushes just outside my window. It is sunday afternoon and about 75 degrees in the dry season - the sun is bright and the ground is dry and dusty. It is cold at night though (well, 50s...) - GREAT climate! Ama and Boots are asleep at my feet, and I can hear the neighborhood kids laughing and hollering, crows and hadada ibis calling in the distance, and a circular saw is running almost constantly as a house goes up two doors down. I'm re-reading George Schaller's "The Year of the Gorilla" in my spare time, and it is so much more meaningful to me now - I recognize the places he names, I can see his descriptions of trekking through the forest and gorilla behavior in my mind's eye. I am still amazed that I work here. That I see mountain gorilla groups weekly if not more often. That I am privaleged to work in 3 countries with a wonderful team of dedicated people. That my family understands this crazy notion of mine that working in Africa for 2 years is okay...

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Rock Island

Last week I spent some time with a friend of a Friend - Tim is an engineer who is with Engineers Without Borders. He worked with Carl, my friend from Madison who has worked here in Rwanda through EWB. Tim and his friends and I went to see the gorilla orphans and talked about Madison Wisconsin, and had a nice time! At the end of the visit Tim handed me a small package from Carl, which contained playing cards and score cards - yay! I need to teach some folks around here to play Euchre! There was also a Rock Island bandanna that looks to be compliments of Melinda - thank you! I put it on my wall so that I can easily go to Rock Island in my memories as I look at the familiar map. And Mary, thank you for the wonderful letter and chive card. I am thinking of you all as you get ready for the annual trek to the rock.

This is the picture I have on my computer desk top from several years ago. I'll be there in spirit this summer!

Saturday, July 3, 2010

Our regional veterinary team

Each month all Gorilla Doctors gather in Ruhengeri at our regional office for “veterinary rounds”. We also invite Dr. Arthur, the ICCN veterinarian for Virunga National Park in Congo, Dr. Cyprian, our volunteer veterinarian who is helping with our domestic animals cases, and Elisabeth, the Volcanoes Nation Park Veterinary Warden and our dear partner in Rwanda. We meet to discuss cases, specific gorilla medicine subjects, and in general share our experiences and learn from each other. We have such a great team, and each time we get together I am reminded of what a devoted, knowledgeable and hard working group of veterinarians and professionals I am privileged to work with.

This month we had several interesting and sometimes difficult cases to discuss. Dr. Magdalena and Dr. Fred had a difficult case with the tiny twin gorilla baby in Bwindi who died shortly after she was found. She was much smaller than her twin, and the suspicion is that the mother could not provide enough mild for both babies to grow well. There was Mukunda, the silverback in DRC who had been out of the forest for almost 2 weeks when Dr. Eddy, Dr. Arthur and I anesthetized him to move him back to the forest – a case with medical and political issues that were good for us to discuss as a team. And of course the Pablo group tragedies of last month. We debrief, discuss all medical and political aspects of each case. We try to learn as much as we can from each situation to apply to the next similar case. This is also a part of capacity building for our regional veterinarians. In addition we try to send each veterinarian to an intensive continuing education experience each year.


From left to right around the table: Dr. Eddy, Dr. Fred, Dr. Julius,
Elisabeth, Dr. Magda, Dr. Jacques, Dr. Cyprian and Dr. Arthur.

Each “rounds” we also discuss a specific subject, and this month we talked about anti-inflammatory drugs – you know, ibuprofen and the like. Probably sounds pretty boring, but it is a great learning opportunity for us to discuss in depth the drugs that we use, so that we always use them wisely! This month JP also gave us a lesson on calibrating our microscopes so that we can accurately measure cells and parasites. I learned a lot from him that day.


JP during the lecture portion of his presentation.


Dr. Eddy looking in the microscope, with Dr. Fred, Dr. Julius, Dr. Arthur, and JP the teacher.

You can read the biographies of each of our Gorilla Doctors on the website (http://www.gorilladoctors.org/), but let me tell you a bit more about each of these incredibly dedicated people.

Dr. Eddy and Dr. Jacqes are our Field Veterinarians in the Democratic Republic of Congo. They are some of the bravest people I know. Remember that Dr. Eddy went to Walikali to confiscate little Njingala, even though it was a “red zone” at the time. Things are beginning to stabilize in Congo where we work, but Drs. Eddy and Jacques must always be alert to rebel activities. Dr. Jacques is our “fixer” in Congo – he can help make almost anything happen when we need it! They currently work with one truck between them, with little complaint – we are working on acquiring another, but funds are limited at the moment!

Dr. Fred is our newest Field Veterinarian, working in Uganda. He came to us with considerable experience with chimpanzees and is working hard to learn all of the habituated gorilla groups in Bwindi! We are trying to secure a microscope for his field station in Bwindi so he can run some simple tests there rather than having to run samples to Kampala or Ruhengeri. Dr. Fred is a great folk story teller and a gentle soul.


Dr. Eddy and Dr. Fred listening intently.

Dr. Julius is our newest Gorilla Doctor. He is setting up an office in Kigali and is the Rwanda Country Coordinator for a program called Predict. He will be coordinating very important work investigating zoonotic diseases in the country (diseases that can move between animals and people). Dr. Julius also comes to us with chimpanzee experience, but will now gain experience with many species as he investigates diseases.

Elisabeth has been working as a veterinary technician with mountain gorillas for over 20 years. Her experience and wisdom make her an invaluable partner to MGVP, and we lean on her when we are making difficult field decisions. She is not only our partner, but a good friend to each of us.


Dr. Julius and Elisabeth soaking up the information JP was presenting!


Jean Paul (JP) is the manager of our Employee Health Program. He works so very hard to be sure all trackers, guides and rangers have their annual physical examinations, receive their results, receive treatment, etc. He also compiles all results and reports and works with doctors and hospitals in all 3 countries. In addition is the lab manager when he is in the office, and is our resident microbiologist. He just returned from an intensive course in primate parasitology in Germany, and will be presenting what he learned there at our next rounds!

Dr. Noel joined us last October as a laboratory technician. He recently received his veterinary degree from ISAE and did his final project looking at parasites in cows around the park. He is hard working, dedicated to learning, and loves working in the lab. We hope to send him to the United States for intensive labwork experience sometime this year once we raise the airfare.

Dr. Magdalena is our Regional Field Veterinarian, and she stands ready to work in all 3 countries if and when needed. She has the most experience in our regional team on management of respiratory diseases, and works a lot with the confiscated orphan gorillas in Kinigi. Like Fred and Julius, she absolutely adores chimps, but we do not hold that against any of them!

Not present at rounds this month were Dr. Jean Felix, who is pursuing masters in Public Health in Kigali at the moment, Dr. Benard, who is the Uganda Country Coordinator for Predict, and Drs. Mike and Kirsten, our fearless and dedicated leaders who work non-stop behind the scenes to keep us on track!


Dr. Eddy, Dr. Noel, Dr. Fred and Dr. Julius.

The days we have our monthly veterinary rounds are long, but we always try to end with dart practice for fun. We use a banana tree in the back yard as our target – he’s still alive, although a bit tattered, especially around the “bull’s eye”!




We are a team of veterinarians and professionals working toward the same goal – gorilla health and conservation. We do that by direct gorilla care, human health care, domestic animal health care. One Health.



Olivier (vet student), Dr. Eddy, Dr. Julius, Dr. Magda, Dr. Jacques, Schadrack (administrator), JP, Dr. Cyprian, Dr. Fred, and in front, Dr. Noel and me!

Many thanks to Molly Feltner for the great photos.

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Gorilla Doctors post

New post on Gorilladoctorsblog.org

Sorry for the cross post, but my blog writing time is a little limited these days!

Rumangabo

Spent the day at Rumangabo, DRC, at a meeting about design and construction of the Senkwekwe center, where Miasha and Kaboko will go in a few months. Saw a large group of Colobus monkeys including a mom with a little gray baby (they are born white then turn black and white during their first year of life). Saw a mongoose cross the road in Rwanda and almost get hit (I would have had to stop and help it if it DID get hit), but couldn't seen the volcano today because of the haze...

Dinner with Team Rwanda (national bicycling team) tonight!